A Day in the Life of Diana in Rotterdam

Diana is a gracious force. A business woman with the soul of an artist. Or an artist with a career in business. Both are valid. Her determination and perseverance inspire you to reach for the impossible, while her serene composure and grace can tame your wildest demons. 

Diana has only entered my life a few months ago, and yet there are so many things I could write about her already. I’ll start with the beginning. In the summer of 2020, as the world was slowly reopening at the end of the first pandemic wave, she was on a ferry, crossing the Mediterranean sea from Athens to her island of choice. She was venturing on a solo trip, perhaps looking for some answers, as her life was again at crossroads. She was sailing away not only from Athens, her home for the past decade, but also from a long and successful career in marketing. Thousands of kilometers away, at yet another sea, the North Sea, was her Greek boyfriend who had relocated with work to the Netherlands. That summer, Diana had no idea what the future had in store, but her mind was already made up: she would leave the corporate past behind and follow her passion for jewellery instead. And she would do this in the Netherlands, where she would move to be with her man. The trip to the island would be a slow goodbye to the past and a gentle immersion into the future. The ferry kept crossing the water, and Diana’s phone blinked with a notification: “Andra started following you.” “You live in Amsterdam?” she said soon afterwards. “I am also moving to Amsterdam. Very soon.”

And that is how it started.

She hasn’t moved to Amsterdam yet - and we have a pandemic and subsequent lockdowns to blame for that - but is now indeed living in Rotterdam with Konstantinos. In the short time since she came to the Netherlands, she has already put in motion her dream company, The Sense of Beauty, an online gallery where she curates jewellery crafted by independent designers, the same way art is curated in galleries around the world. Because this is exactly what jewellery is to her: art. 

I am glad that she accepted to be part of “A Day in the Life of” series, a corona-customised edition of it in fact, with no visits to shops, restaurants, or any other busy locations in town - although Diana does share her favourite addresses with me - instead with long chats in the comfort of her stylish home in Rotterdam fuelled by coffee and wine, with photos, lots of photos because she is extremely comfortable in front of the camera, a walk in her favourite area in the city, and a home-made dinner prepared for the occasion.

It’s a gloomy Sunday in November when I visit, but it all turns bright the moment she opens the door. She is wearing a long white shirt over a pair of leathery leggings, comfortable heels, and a state of the art porcelain necklace around her neck. Simple clothes, statement jewellery - her style.

“You are beautiful,” I say as we hug, which is becoming my custom greeting for her, an impulsive reaction to her elegance and freshness. She compliments me for my perfume, which by now I understand that she likes a lot. 

We go to the living room, where a sense of transparency and lightness envelops you the moment you step in. The room faces the waterfront through an entire wall made of windows. A glass wall. Next to it, a glass dining table with transparent, glass-like chairs. Diana makes coffee and lays the two cups on the small table in front of the sofa on which we sit. The coffee cups are transparent, too. By the force of this simplicity, it all stands out in Diana’s home, as it would in a gallery, quite a delight for the senses: the ceramic face masks on the coffee table, the large canvases in soft orange tones placed against the wall on each side of the sofa, the lamp in the shape of a flower that illuminates one canvas, the lamp in the shape of a hat next to the television, the vase in the shape of a head moulded in white porcelain from which an abundance of lilies burst above the dining table. She explains that everything I see was shipped from her apartment in Athens, and I remember that apartment well, from her social media, a classic home of high ceilings and Parisian-style wooden floors, decorated in what I now understand is Diana’s signature style. 

“Wait, I have something for you,” she says and disappears in the other room. She returns to the sofa with a little black box tied with a ribbon. I open it and inside is my absolute favourite ring from her jewellery collection, the Heritage golden ring. It looks even more beautiful in reality. I put it on my finger, totally charmed.

“It’s one thing for a man to give you a ring,” I say, “but to be offered a ring by a woman, wow, that feels really special!” 

“It looks good on you.” I can tell she is happy to see me so excited about the ring. 

“I love it! I thought I was not made for jewellery, but you just proved me wrong.”

I ask who the designer is and am surprised to find out that she designed the ring herself, inspired from some piece she discovered in the jewellery box of an old acquaintance. In fact, the entire Heritage collection is inspired by this. I am speechless. The ring feels even more precious now and I think I start to understand Diana's passion for jewellery and what she means when she says that jewellery is good for the soul, is emotional, and touches the senses the same way art does.  

“I also brought you something,” I say, getting two chocolate letters from my bag, a “D” for her, and a “K'' for Kosta. I tell her about the Dutch custom of offering chocolate letters around Sinterklaas. She hasn’t heard of it, but is excited about the letters and takes a photo of them with her phone. Her excitement reminds me of my own move to the Netherlands when I, too, was discovering little by little the customs of this country. Now that Diana is here, it feels good to see the Netherlands through her eyes. 

“Dutch life remains unknown to me because there are currently no Dutch people I interact with. Right now I feel totally disconnected, and everything is still to be discovered.”

Moving to a new country, however, is not so new to her. Before Rotterdam and Athens, she also lived in Paris, her first home away from Bucharest, our hometown. Each time she moved she did it for work, adding year after year of experience to her career. But this time is different. Now, it is about her. 

She shares with me her impressions about the Netherlands so far.

“The only thing I miss here is the sun. Everything else is tolerable, especially when life in the Netherlands seems so easy, from daily routines to starting a business. Here I can walk a lot or bike, and there is hardly any need to drive, except to go on weekend trips. I am charmed by the Dutch interiors, warm and cosy and with fresh flowers in vases by the window, the old city centres with their picturesque canals, and I adore this house in which we live, especially because it faces the water, and to me water is therapeutic.”

When she left the corporate life, she promised herself to prioritise those things she had neglected before: to rest enough, take care of her health, exercise daily even if it’s just going for a walk, eat healthy and take the time to enjoy the meal, do more of things she loves, take care of her relationship, spend time with inspiring people, be more present. 

Her manifesto and her life in the Netherlands might just be one and the same thing, with jewellery as the centrepiece of her days. She starts in the morning, with coffee and a healthy breakfast of cereals, then switches to work mode. She works from her laptop, at the dining table that also serves as a desk. For lunch she prepares everything with avocado and/or sardines - both “great for the skin.” Work is important, but so are the breaks. That’s when the best ideas reach her. In good weather, a break can be a walk in the park or a visit to the flower shop. If the weather is bad, then it’s reading at home. I am interested in what kind of books she likes. Philosophy books are at the top of her list, with Way of the Samurai by Yukio Mishima and Letters to Lucilus by Seneca as favourites. Then there are the personal development, nutrition, and holistic health books. She also enjoys the magical realism works of Mircea Eliade, the absurd theatre plays of Eugen Ionescu, and the specialty theatre books, the so-called manuals for actors, such as Sculpting in Time by Andrei Tarkovsky. In the evening, after a visit to the swimming pool with Kosta and a late, Mediterranean style dinner - Greek habits die hard - it’s time for a film. A few favourites: Arizona Dream, The Piano, The Hours, A Single Man - she really admires Tom Ford’s style - and Breakfast at Tiffany's for when she feels low and is in need of a booster. Old films from the 60s or 70s are wonderful for their atmosphere, whether they are French, Italian, Greek, or even Romanian. 

Theatre and cinematography have been a continuous source of inspiration for Diana and also of fascination, to the point that she thought of becoming an actress, dedicating her life to the profession. Not only did she think about it, she went for it. At that time she lived and worked in Paris. There she took acting classes to perfect her public speech and discovered that this practise had therapeutic effects, that it helped her overcome certain blockages within herself, be more outspoken and happier. She continued to take classes in Romania when she returned, and eventually applied to the National University of Theatre and Film in Bucharest. Terrified that she would be admitted and her life would change completely, she failed at the last of the four admission exams. What she felt was relief. Then came the job in Greece. After she learned the language, she enrolled at an acting school in Athens, from where she graduated a few years later. 

I am amazed by her determination to follow her dreams. She is not practising acting, but I have the feeling this is far from being a closed chapter for her.

 “Acting allowed for my sensitivity and vulnerability to surface. It made me aware of possessing these qualities,” she concludes. 

By now we are already drinking wine by the window on the mellow sounds of a radio station recommended by her best friend from Athens, and I cannot help but think how amazing this feels. Indeed, what a pleasure to be in the company of this inspiring woman, inside her Dutch-Greek home facing a canal, and not only because she is inspiring and her house is inspiring too, but mostly because in an attempt to stay safe during the pandemic many of our meetings have happened outside, in weather conditions varying from miserable to cruel. I really don’t know how we did it. How different our meetings would have been - and her whole immersion into the Dutch life - had she moved to the Netherlands before 2020. But I am really not complaining. She is here, I am here, and Sade is singing “Hang On To Your Love” on the Greek radio station.

Dutch light is scarce and clumsy, so we have to move fast if we want to take photos. I am warned there would be more outfits and different pieces of jewellery to match each of them. I am delighted to see how creative and organised she is about this. I don’t need to tell her how to pose, that is obvious from the beginning. She is not even posing, she moves and gestures naturally. “So nice that you like photos as much as I do,” I say, to which she smiles and continues to model. I know this is going to be a successful photoshoot, and my only concern is not to break anything as I follow her with my camera. 

From the living room we move into the bedroom which also serves as boudoir. On the vanity table I recognise the black boxes in which she packs the jewellery pieces from her website, and right next to them, a frame with one of my line paintings, a gift from me to Diana. It feels good to see it here, among the most precious objects in her possession, her jewellery cases, which to her also act like memory boxes.

“For many years now, I bought jewellery to remind me of something dear to my soul or simply as a gesture of self-appreciation. I really hope and wish that women have plenty of jewellery in their boudoir as proof of the happiness in their life.”

There are other frames, in the bedroom, on the hallway, even in the toilet with beautiful, artistic photographs, that get my attention as we move around. More gifts from her friends involved with the arts or just personal preferences. A male nude photograph above the toilet makes me smile in particular, only because I also happen to have a male nude image above my toilet at home, a painting I made myself. 

“It’s a self-portrait of a friend of mine, a photographer,” she says about the nude. “I got it as a gift.”

“How brave of your friend,” I say. 

 There is still some light left, so we head for the walk outside, with the intention to take a few more photos. For this, she puts on a long white coat accessorised with a white flower brooch, a black leather ribbon in her hair, a black cube purse on her arm, and a pair of wedge boots, also black. As we step outside, among cranes, barges, and skyscrapers, it’s almost impossible to reconcile Diana’s elegance with the rough Rotterdam aesthetic. 

She admits that Rotterdam is not exactly her cup of tea. “Too industrial and too quiet.” There are, however, certain areas which she really likes, such as the historical and more classical looking Delfshaven - where she is now taking me, because “it’s beautiful” and  “it reminds me of Amsterdam” - the Cool district for its cafes and places to hang out, the artsy Museumplein, and definitely the nature, such as the park around the corner from where she lives, Het Park, and Kralingse Bos, by the lake. 

 “Compared to Amsterdam, it does seem like a more calm and accessible city, which makes life easy. But it lacks the charm of the capital, it is less vibrant, and the people living here are less sophisticated in terms of looks and display less preoccupation with beauty compared to Amsterdammers.”

Delfshaven is a first for me, although I have been to Rotterdam countless times before. Indeed, it is Amsterdam-pretty. And it looks charming in the pink, sunset light, with steam rising from the houseboats moored along the canal. The air is chilly and smells like burnt wood, signs that winter is close. Once again I realise that this city is waiting to be discovered, it doesn’t show itself off. You just need to know where to go.

On the way back to the apartment, I want to take a photo of Diana against what I consider to be the real Rotterdam, the city of cranes, cargo boats, and skyscrapers. 

“You like industrial architecture, don’t you?” she says.

“I do. It comforts me. And I think it perfectly matches the spirit of Rotterdam, the harbour city. I wish Amsterdam were more like this.”

Diana is back to her comfortable heels and leggings, and since it’s dinner time she puts on a festive silvery top instead of the white shirt, accessorised with the Heritage silver necklace and ring. 

“Of course I’m always dressed-up like this when I cook. Always.” We laugh and feel more relaxed now that the photoshoot is over. 

Our boyfriends join us for dinner. Diana cooks salmon and vegetables, and before that we have cheese - “four different types, all from Greece,” Kosta explains and proceeds to name them - and olives, most certainly from Greece too. Indeed, from Kalamata, comes the confirmation. 

“What else is from Greece?”, I say. “Besides you, the furniture, the food, the radio station…” 

 It turns out there is more. There are also Greek television channels, and everything you need in order to prepare a Freddo espresso, which to me looks like a smaller frappe without the milk. And perhaps it is more. 

“I like these things,“ Kosta explains. “I am used to them, they bring me comfort, but this is not about me being proud of my Greekness. They’re just habits.” And then, looking at my boyfriend, who has just mentioned the latest dish he prepared at home: “But do you know what makes me really proud? To know that an English guy cooks a Greek moussaka in his home in Amsterdam. That makes me very proud.”

I am thinking that, as much as this is a glimpse into Diana’s fresh life in the Netherlands - and a bit of Kosta’s life, too - it can be representative for the expat experience in general, in any other country. We expats do live in a bubble, and it is important how we cultivate it and who we bring into the bubble with us. Our bubble becomes our home, our family, and to some extent, ourselves. We are a bit reborn each time we move and create a new life.

 I am sure Diana’s life in the Netherlands will grow into something as memorable as the others she has had so far. Besides, she is proof that dreams have no borders. They can be pursued everywhere. 

Diana’s favourite addresses in Rotterdam:

For coffee: 

Dudok In Het Park

Studio Unfolded (also for ceramics)

For flowers:

NICHE

For clothes:

Objet Trouvé 

Vintage & Labels by Hendrikus

For everything cool:

The shops around the Markthal

A Day in the Life of Terry, Anywhere in Amsterdam

This is not a day in the life of Terry; this is a day of leisure in the life of Terry. On any other day, he is busy with becoming a doctor, managing his business, or travelling the world. No matter what he is doing, he is doing it with dedication and with a genuine interest for others. This applies to leisure time, too. I told him the first time we met to discuss travel writing and photography over a cup of coffee: “You are a humanitarian.” I still think this is the best way to describe him. He smiled because he is also modest. Then a kid tripped and fell at a table next to us. Terry turned his head in less than a second. The kid was alright, so he just said: “Well, I’m off duty.”

I was happy when he accepted to be featured in “A Day in the Life of..” – a category in which I usually invite friends or people I know quite well. He is none of the above, and yet it makes total sense for him to be here. There is this sense of openness and generosity about him – I think they call it charisma – that makes people naturally gravitate towards him. I could see this when going out and about Amsterdam with him for a day in his life.

*  *  *

The day we meet for photos, Amsterdam is melting and we are melting, too. Terry is not impressed. He has just woken up after a night of barbecue and drinks with friends on a rooftop in the old centre. He lets me in, gives me a glass of cold water from the fridge, then starts to clean the coffee stains around the kitchen sink. As he sprays some cleaning solution on the top of the electric stove, he tells me the coffee machine is not working. I suggest we forget about machines, boil some water instead, and make coffee Turkish style. No. He will find a solution. He grinds the beans at the defunct machine, produces a filter from one of the drawers, then we have coffee. We enjoy it with some breakfast in his apartment overlooking the Rozengracht. It is obvious how much he likes the place. He has been living here for a couple of years. While still central, it is outside the madness. Besides, he can walk everywhere.

I ask him to describe a normal morning in his life. He says he has to be at the hospital at 07:45 every day and that in Amsterdam Noord. No time for breakfast at home. In the weekend though, he likes to take it really slow and enjoy the full package: rest, food, reading, time with friends, and a visit to some of his favourite places in the area. And this is exactly where I am planning to follow him.

Looking at the collection of medical books on the shelves whose only titles give me the shivers, I ask Terry what made him choose medicine. He says he also studied law for a year but had to give it up when admitted to medical school. At this point, obviously, we have to make a little detour and talk about Suits and Harvey Specter.

“Do you think Harvey is handsome?” he asks not trying to hold back a smile.

“Are you kidding me? Not only is he handsome, but there is this sense of confidence about him that makes him so appealing. Just let him be with Donna already!”

“His real name is Gabriel Macht.” He stresses on the Macht.

“Oh, I know his real name. I know his father’s name, too. It’s Stephan Macht.”

We laugh and switch back to medicine. The reason he chose it, as expected, has everything to do with caring about people and, I would add, having the dedication and perseverance to follow such a tough yet highly rewarding field.

“And what exactly are you specializing in?” I ask willing to close the subject.

“Surgery,” he says as if my question was about his favourite brand of toothpaste. I am not even surprised.

With such a busy schedule, one would think there is no time left for much else, let alone other projects. It is not the case for Terry, who is also the proud owner of Amsterdam-based clothing brand Veryus, specialized in creating limited suede caps.

“Why Veryus?” I ask while he is scrolling up and down on the website to show me part of the collection.

“It comes from various, obviously.”

I think of various people wearing various coloured caps in various countries.

“Do you actually have the energy for this, especially since you are training to become a doctor, or is it just something to do?”

“Oh, I definitely enjoy doing this. I don’t like to be aggressive with my brand, I make the caps because I do believe in their superior quality. And it makes me happy to see people at festivals wearing them or receiving messages from total strangers telling me how much they like my caps and how they receive compliments from others when wearing them.”

“I am totally getting it,” I say. “I know how happy I am whenever people I take photos of use them or when others write to me to compliment me for a piece of writing I did that managed to change something for them.”

I know there is a strong connection between Terry’s brand and travel.

“I always try to inspire my customers to travel and explore the world and therefore I created the slogan: <Let’s travel the world with Veryus>, where I stimulate people to share their travel photos whenever wearing one of my caps. I’ve recently added dry bags to the collection, to become more like a travel brand.”

I make a joke and ask if there are also wet bags, not in the collection, but in the world. Terry doesn’t look so amused. For him, a dry bag is what a dry bag is: something necessary to keep your stuff safe and dry while you climb the mountains.

“Alright, it’s past midday. We can drink now.” He rushes to the kitchen. “Gin & Tonic?”

“Sounds good,” I say following him to the kitchen island.

He is pointing at the now empty gin bottle resting on the counter: “From Philippines.”

I feel like I want to hear more about his travels. So far, he has seen no less than fifty countries. Not bad for a 27-year old. But words need to be grabbed and pulled out with claws from Terry’s mouth when it comes to his achievements, so I decide to park the subject for the time being.

I only ask how he accommodates his eating habits while travelling. Easy.

“I have no habits,” he says. “I always like to try new things.”

We take the drinks up on the rooftop terrace with views over the city. I can see the Westerkerk, a few meters away, the two pyramid buildings in the West,  the office buildings at Sloterdijk, the Pontsteiger at Houthavens, the A’dam Tower from across the IJ, the shiny skyscrapers at the Zuid As, and the rest of architectural landmarks I might not properly recognize.

“So you see everything but the East.”

He laughs.

“Now, who wants to see that?” he jokes, well aware the East is my side of town.

We are melting in the strong afternoon sun, but no way we are going to hide from it. I might well be a lover of summer, but I am also thinking of excessive sunlight exposure and things like that.

“Why not use an umbrella, for the shadow?” I say.

My Romanian ingeniosity must pass as so strange for Terry, like earlier, during the coffee episode.

“No, we don’t do that here.”

I am amused by the cultural differences between us. I don’t insist, but I don’t give up either. I just change the strategy.

“I thought doctors recommend not staying in the sun for too long.”

It sounds more like a question rather than a statement.

“Not in the Netherlands,” he says with conviction.

I am not winning this.

“Well, if the doctors say so.” I laugh and take another sip of gin.

I ask Terry if he is happy with his life, if there is anything in particular he wishes for. He shakes his shoulders and says he is content with everything he has achieved so far and is simply enjoying whatever life is offering him on a daily basis. And that’s when I remember, even though it is so easy to forget this when talking to him, that Terry is Dutch. He might be lacking the proverbial arrogance of his fellow countrymen, of Amsterdammers in particular, but when it comes to being happy with what you have, he is as Dutch as Dutch can be. And that is a good thing.

Then we reach my favourite subject of discussion with a Dutch man: the (in my opinion) messed-up dynamics between Dutch men and Dutch women, in other words dating in the Netherlands. Without any remorse, I tell him my view on the subject, which goes something like this: Dutch men are like shape without contents, handsome but not interesting, while Dutch women are predators with no grace. After a decade of living in Amsterdam, I think I am as entitled to make statements about Dutch people as Dutch people make about me. Terry just smiles. It’s not about whether he agrees or not. I realize this is the smile he displays whenever I make such general statements. It is his personal answer to prejudice, and I take it.

There are some very Dutch and some very un-Dutch things about Terry. I think this is the second-best way to describe him (after humanitarian.) Take music, for example. I was one hundred per cent sure that, like almost all Dutch young men, he was into electronic music, or worse, techno. Another prejudice I bring to the table that makes him smile. He is proud to show me his vinyl collection, which mostly consists of R&B, soul, and some jazz too. There is a certain Motown Records piece he holds in his hands with the names of Lionel Richie, Diana Ross, the Commodores, and the like. The year when each song on the compilation came out is also visible: late 60s, 70s, 80s.

“You must know them very well,” he says as if it’s the most natural thing in the world to say.

Nothing can keep me from bursting into laughter.

“I am not that old, you know? A few years older doesn’t make me an expert in the 60s.”

He doesn’t say anything more, but I know exactly where this statement is going to: on the list with very Dutch items. Thank God for my sense of humour.

Time to go out and let Terry guide me to his favourite places in the neighbourhood. We are on our way to his favourite vinyl shop, a small place on the Prinsengracht where Terry gets his favourite music from. “I usually get two vinyls each time I go there: one that I like, and with the other, I take a risk.” In his hand, he carries a plastic bag with the shop’s logo on it, which he took from home and which makes the shop’s owner smile when Terry leaves it on the counter. My humble understanding of the Dutch language is telling me that it was the owner’s request for Terry to bring it back, so as not to get a new one each time he buys something.

The place is just like he described it: small, cramped with boxes – some organized alphabetically or per genre – others completely in chaos. Terry is browsing them carefully, with the same patience that seems to be an extension of every gesture he makes. While looking into a cardboard box labelled “soundtrack,” he asks about the kind of music I like. I tell him my musical interest is rather eclectic, depending on the mood I’m in, but that I mostly listen to Off radio nowadays and select my songs from there. I also mention my favourite electronic music artist, George Clanton, and it seems that I am more into electronic music than Terry has ever been.

Afterwards, when we walk back to the Rozengracht, we discuss lyrics and their impact on songs, the art of saying something already said a million times before, yet in a different way, solely through the mastering of words. He agrees up to the point where I say that, from the lyric aspect alone, R&B songs are rather cheesy.

I ask if there are other places with significance for him in Amsterdam. Like a particular street he likes to walk along or a place linked to a specific memory. He ponders for a while.

“Not really,” he says. “Every place can be a nice place and you can make memories anywhere.”

How liberating. I then think that if someone had asked me that when I was 27 and living in Bucharest, my answer would not have been much different. When you are born in a city and you make a living for yourself there, the city is nothing but the background against which your life happens. And aren’t cities supposed to be just that? Or maybe we tend to give them more meaning as we get older.

Starving, we stop at one of the places where Terry is a regular. He told me the first time we met, most probably in the context of me asking him about his favourite places in Amsterdam, that he liked Bagels & Beans, a Dutch classic which I happen to be very fond of too. He was going there almost every weekend, to the point where the staff learned his favourite beverage and were greeting him with it whenever crossing their threshold.

We enter the location on Rozengracht and one of the girls at the counter says that food orders are no longer possible because they are closing soon. The girl must be a rookie because another one jumps right in and asks her to prepare a big cappuccino for Terry. Then she looks at me and asks what is it that I would like to have. I say matcha latte, she recommends the one with ice. I say ice matcha latte it is, and follow Terry on the terrace.

“I can’t believe they have no food,” I say feeling really hungry.

“I know. I just couldn’t refuse the cappuccino after what happened inside.”

I look at him sipping patiently from his cappuccino and think that yes, this is Terry, who would rather be starving – and have me starve with him, too –  than disrespectful.

We cross the street and enter the Albert Heijn. We are at the cafe part, right by the entrance, where a lady is preparing fresh sandwiches. Terry takes a bite from the tray left there with this exact purpose.

“I love the Albert Heijn,” he says chewing from what appears to be a sample of a ham sandwich.

That makes me smile, but then I realize I also like the supermarket in discussion.

“I do miss it when I travel,” I say.

“Oh, God, yes!” he says. Then, in Dutch, to the woman making the sandwiches, a nice Asian lady: “Is it Ok if I take another bite? I already took one.”

The woman looks up at him, then looks back down at the sandwiches she is folding, smiles, and says, as if it were their little secret: “I didn’t see anything.”

We order two sandwiches and have them at the bar, facing De Clerqstraat.

“So, when do you think this will be ready?” he says munching on his sandwich.

“You mean, the blog post?” My sandwich is too hot and why on earth didn’t I get it untoasted?

“Yes, the writing. In a month or so?”

“A month?” I say surprised. “No, I think I might even do it tonight.”

Then, it is time for me to leave. Terry would meet a friend to catch-up, have dinner, and watch the football game together at his place. He gives me a hug at the crossing, then we part ways. Of course he is a hugger.

I sit down and wait for my tram, thinking that yes, it is possible to give kindness and receive kindness in return. Even in Amsterdam. Even with Dutch people.

Home at De Heren on the Herengracht

For most of us living in Amsterdam, the beautiful buildings along the historic canal ring are nothing but an open-air museum, subject to contemplation and dreams of maybe living there one day. To have the chance to actually set foot into one of them is a totally different story, an occasion you have to grasp whenever offered to you.

When I was invited to take photos of such a house on the Herengracht, I obviously said yes. The owners, a friendly gay couple who like to call themselves De Heren (“The Gentlemen”), opened the doors to their gorgeous home for me and by doing so probably had no idea they were setting me for an unforgettable experience. Style, sophistication, comfort, and the emblematic view over the canals of Amsterdam – this is how I would summarize it.

Are you ready for the tour?

Aurora in the Extraordinary World of Moooi

An origami-style exotic bird lamp and a reach out for the stars lamp, a wooden lounge chair inspired by “the lost relationship between individuals and raw materials” and an elegant leather sofa “shifted into a vertical posture” to act as an armchair, a flowers of Eden carpet and a walking on clouds carpet, a golden egg vase, a wooden rocking horse with a silver unicorn head … and I will stop here because I am sure you got the idea. This is just a fraction of the wonderful world of Moooi, a design studio like a conceptual art exhibition.

It was Aurora‘s idea to go there and have me take some photos of her in that almost surreal decor. The images will accompany an article on Dutch design she wrote for a Croatian publication. Needless to say, I was very excited about it and we both had so much fun during this photoshoot.

Here are some of the photos.

Generosity in the Shape of a Home

It started when I was a child. With my family, I would go visit people – family friends – in their homes. Not all these places were interesting. But those that always got my attention were the homes where the feminine influence was easy to see. Where the practical was just a side effect of the aesthetic. Velvet curtains, flowers in china vases, vanities heavy with perfume bottles and jewellery boxes, a hand cream tube resting on the night table. I could almost picture myself living like that when I would be old enough to have my own home. If I happened to stay overnight in such a place, it was a sheer joy to use that woman’s toiletries: shower gels, body lotions, and secretly, a bit of perfume, too.

Our apartment was not as interesting. We had good furniture, it was clean and tidy. My mother was proud of her impeccable white towels and she took laundry very seriously. My sister and I were immaculately dressed, preferably in white. The cupboards, the wardrobes, the pantry were all well organized. In our children’s bedroom, the drawers of our desk were regularly checked and sorted. Any pen that did not write, any paper that did not serve a purpose were simply thrown away, never accumulated. We were not allowed to post things on the wall, as we saw in other children’s rooms. Posters were considered tacky, plus they would ruin the paint. Ours was definitely a masculine home, and my father’s military background had a lot to do with it. I did not have a problem with that. On the contrary. When I visited my friends in their homes, I would show them how to tidy up or I would just do it for them. Because I could not sit and watch cartoons with them if their room was a total mess. It bothered me. But even so, a part of me was intrigued by the atmosphere of such a place – it must have felt very free and bohemian to me – and the carelessness of the people living like that.

The life of others has always fascinated me. Their routines, their choices, the little things that make them happy. And there is no place that can tell you more about someone than their home. I love to be in other people’s homes, to look around and find traces of their personality. Furniture, tableware, art, accessories, books or the lack thereof – all good indicators. Sometimes, visiting people is a disappointing experience. The utilitarian is what most are after. You may just as well be in the waiting room at the dentist and the experience would be just as uninspiring. You are happy to leave. A different story when you are in a beautiful home, where there is care for details. In the space around you, you feel the love and the generosity of the host. You feel spoilt, looked after. You are lucky. You are in a real home.

When I booked this apartment in Lisbon for a longer stay, I was expecting it to be spacious, stylish, and comfortable. What I did not expect was for it to feel so homey, to exude the warmth and the care of the host even when she is not around. Even more surprising was to find myself in her choices. This is a home shaped after the needs of my soul. It is not my home, but it could be. The warm kitchen with carefully selected tableware, the cinnamon and mahogany scented candles all over the place, a drawer full of incense sticks, the Jacaranda hand cream on the desk, in the office room, – I have the same one at home and I use it for inspiration, before I start to write -, the green tea perfume I’ve always liked, the lotions in the bathroom, the books on the shelves. It makes me so happy to be in this house, at any moment of the day, on rain or sunshine. The sweet light of Lisbon, pouring inside through the windows, only adds up to this feeling of peace and generosity. Some homes have a special power: they make you feel like a better version of yourself. It’s what this home makes to me. Here, I want to read, I want to prepare meals, I want to write. Even the simple gesture of doing the laundry and hanging it on wires on the balcony fills me with joy. It is a place where I want to spend time and just be.

I’m thinking that, just like the feminine or masculine homes in which we live, there are also feminine or masculine cities. A home like this would not be possible in, say, Hamburg or in Reykjavik. Not even in Amsterdam. But it would be possible in Paris or in Rome. That’s because it takes a feminine city, a city born of elegance and beauty, to accommodate such a place. Northern cities are made with other purposes in mind. As a result, they are more austere looking, they seem so masculine when compared to southern cities: brick instead of stone, function in place of aesthetic, straight lines in place of any decorations.

The buildings in which we live, work, or those we see when we walk down the street most certainly affect our mood, how we feel as citizens, they even give hints on how to dress when we go out, and how to decorate our homes. The reason why this home here, in Lisbon, has such a positive effect on me – and surely on anyone crossing its threshold – is because it is a feminine home in a feminine city. It is supposed to be warm and pretty because Lisbon is like that. Besides, a feminine city asks for feminine buildings, beautiful buildings on both interior and exterior. They don’t have elevators, but they have an elegant, spiral staircase, with wooden steps that crack under your feet, as if to say “welcome home.” These are buildings with dignity and living in them makes you feel like a human being. It makes sense that the homes they nestle can only be special. A home to treat you with generosity and to spoil you, just like a good host.

A Day in the Life of Diana, in Bucharest

Diana and I met in Amsterdam, back to 2011. She lived in a cute place on PC Hooftstraat, worked for a Dutch bank, rode a pink bike, and loved to introduce us, the girls, to new bars, cafes, or nice places to hang out. A few years later, she decided to move back to Bucharest. Although I still miss her in Amsterdam, I am happy I have the chance to meet her here, in Bucharest, whenever I pay a visit to my hometown – our hometown. Diana and I share the same love for Bucharest and its mind-blowing beauty, the same enthusiasm and curiosity to discover it layer upon layer – and there are so many of them! –  and, like everyone else away from their roots long enough, we’ve learnt to practise a similar tolerance for those harder to digest Romanian ways.

On Friday before Easter, a hot, sunny day when many Romanians were busy with the last shopping before the break, I met Diana again, in Bucharest. “Are you ready for a looong day of walking?” she messaged while waiting for me to arrive at our meeting point, Calea Moșilor bus stop. “You bet I am!” I answered while still on the bus. We had planned to meet for “A Day in the Life of… Diana” and I was really looking forward to letting her take me to her places in Bucharest, those that meant something to her, or where she simply enjoyed spending time for one reason or another.

* * *

And guess where we started! At Obor Market. This market in Tei neighbourhood is the closest one can get to Sicily in Bucharest. How else to explain the explosion of sensations we were thrown into the moment we stepped out of tram 21? The crowds, the food stalls, the smells, the intoxicating smoke from the grill where meat was being prepared, all the necessary and particularly the unnecessary items for sale. I have memories of coming here with my parents when I was just a child. We lived in nearby Pantelimon neighbourhood. Diana’s connection to this market is even stronger, as she used to live in Tei all throughout her childhood and it is in fact from here that she moved to Amsterdam. Walking through Obor Market has the same effect on us as leaving some kids in a candy shop. You just want to get everything. Check the strawberries, eat a pretzel covered in sunflower seeds, get some cheese and spring onion, smell the lilac and get a bunch of that, too. Vendors ask for their photo to be taken. “Check that lady over there,” Diana says. “The one selling potatoes. Look at her. Long eyelashes, big earrings, red lipstick. And what a hairdo. I think she’s amazing.” I take a photo of the lady selling potatoes and I now think it encapsulates the very essence of Obor market. 

By the time we leave Obor Market, it is 1 pm and we are starving. We go behind the main roads flanked with blocks of flats in search of the restaurant that Diana chose for lunch. It is suddenly quiet, green, and there are now houses instead of blocks of flats. A layer has just been peeled off. “This is what Ceaușescu wanted when he erected all those Soviet-style apartment buildings,” Diana says. “To cover a significant and beautiful time in this city’s history. The time when people lived in houses. Those who don’t adventure behind main avenues, behind what seems like never-ending blocks of flats, might never get the chance to see these quaint streets and their different, non-communist architecture.” I think Diana is right. I myself was born and raised in Bucharest and lived there – in various blocks of flats – for so long, and yet it is only in recent years that I am discovering the Bucharest of the quaint, leafy street, and of the villa that everyone would like to imagine living in. “I think it has to do with the stray dogs, too,” I say. “A few years ago, I would be scared to adventure on these side streets because of dogs. Now that they are gone, these streets are exactly where I want to be.”

On one such street, we find Gedo, the Sudanese restaurant Diana wanted us to have lunch at. “I hope you don’t mind I invited some more people,” she says as we get in. “Of course not,” I say. After all, it is a day in her life and who wouldn’t want to hang out with such a sunny person like Diana? We sit outside, on the terrace, and soon Diana’s friends start to show up, one after the other: her boyfriend, Dan, her boyfriend’s friend – both on bikes – and a Brazilian couple with a pram and their child in it. The table gets full of food and sour milk, perhaps like in Sudan. We talk about languages and various expressions from Romanian and Portuguese for most of the meal. When we say goodbye and leave and it’s just me and Diana again I tell her how amazing it is to me that some Brazilian people decided to make Bucharest their home and seem so happy about it.

We are back on the main road, but not for long, because the next place Diana is taking me to is a park. The Circus Park. Luckily, the Circus is no longer running – we are in the 21st century after all and should know better than that – but I am pretty sure I was there at least once, when I was a child, perhaps with my parents, perhaps with the school. The building itself looks so familiar in its UFO-like shape, the shape not only circuses but also markets used to have in Ceaușescu’s time. I am intrigued by Diana’s choice of the park, so I ask her to tell me more. She elucidates the mystery: “This is where Dan and I like to come sometimes when the weather is good. We park our bikes and sit on the grass with a small lunch and a drink. There are turtles by the pond. We prefer this to other parks in the city because here it is never crowded. It is just a simple park, where only people from the neighbourhood come. We like that.”

We open the cold beer we previously bought from a shop and we lose track of time. We sit down, in the Circus Park, and talk about trips to Tokyo and New York. Diana seems so happy about being back to Bucharest. It is as if she has never left it to live somewhere else. And I am happy for her. I might just do the same one day. I’ll have a beer in the Circus Park when that happens.

We might have stayed there for a couple of hours. This is what a good park does. Or maybe it was the beer. When we resume our walk, it is already 5 pm, and it all seems heavier now. For this, we definitely blame the beer.

We leave Tei neighbourhood, walking South, toward the centre. There are still some places Diana would like to share with me for the day. We soon found ourselves in an abundance of that Bucharest layer we both like so much – the quaint streets with beautiful, old houses. We are just passing by, but we stop to take some photos because everything looks so nice. Besides, it is the golden hour by now, the shadows grow longer and the light gets that special tint I have been waiting for the entire day. We take one turn and we are suddenly drawn by a wonderful fragrance. Luxuriant wisteria bunches are hanging over our heads and we cannot get enough of it. After a long pause to smell the flowers, we continue along Alexandru Philippide Street, and Diana points toward a house. The name Păun (“Peacock”) is written on a mailbox in front of it. The house is old and gorgeous, with floral and animal details carved on its facade. No one seems to live there anymore and, even more intriguing, there is a car cemetery in its courtyard. “I think the owner must live somewhere abroad now,” Diana says. “He might not have any family left. Maybe he died there and never had the chance to come back. So his house and cars are now left to the mercy of time.” We might never find out the real story. We’ll call this the mystery on Alexandru Philippide Street.

Before we know it, we reach Dacia Boulevard, the boulevard of beautiful, between-the-war houses, such as the one where the French Institute is located. Diana takes me there, in the courtyard, to show me Elvire Popesco cinema, where she comes to see movies with her boyfriend. The whole premises of the institute look like a classy French piece in the heart of Bucharest.

Close to the French Institute and surrounded by equally gorgeous buildings are two small parks, Ioanid Romulus and Grădina Icoanei. On one such evening, before the movie started at Elvire Popesco cinema, Diana and her boyfriend sat on a bench in Ioanid park. Diana was slightly annoyed because she had forgotten her ring at home. “Really?” said the boyfriend. “Yes, really,” she replied. “I always wear it, yet somehow today I forgot to put it on.” “Well,” said the boyfriend, “then you might want to try this one.” A few tears of joy later and a short phone call to announce the parents, Diana and her soon-to-be-husband went to see the movie. With a new ring on.

Exhausted after a day of walking in the sun, we jump into an Uber to the last destination on Diana’s list. I am beyond happy she chose the National Museum of Contemporary Art for one last drink up on the terrace. In recent years, more rooftop terraces opened in Bucharest, with panoramic views over the city. Ten years ago, however, MNAC terrace was the only such place. Both of us have nice memories up here, of drinks in the sun or parties held on past Museum Nights. The place remains special. There is something about it being harder to reach, up on a hill, in the centre of the city yet in the middle of nowhere, with weeds and broken asphalt leading to the grandiose entrance, and, besides, developed in a wing of the Romanian Parliament building (formerly known as People’s House, built at Ceaușescu’s order to serve as his palace.)

Diana and I have a beer, our feet up on a chair, too tired to speak, but happy to share that moment. In front of us, a group of French tourists lounging on Fatboys are taking photos of each other. A few more people at the tables around. Nothing like the crowded rooftop terraces in the old centre. Then, one by one, Diana’s friends start to show up, just like earlier in the day: Dan and his friend, whom we’ve met for lunch, Diana’s cousin, a friend living in Germany who is now visiting Bucharest with her German boyfriend. “You’re so popular,” I say to her jokingly. “Oh, no. It’s not always like this, I swear. Most of the times it’s just me and Dan.”

After a glorious day, we are only hoping for a glorious sunset. It’s not the case. “It’s the Sahara dust,” someone says. “It has been blown away by the wind and, from the desert, it reached all the way to Europe. It was in the news.”

“Such a beautiful day,” Diana says in a message later that night.

“Yes, it was super nice,” I say. “I feel like a child after a day of playing outside.”

“Exactly like that. And, like a child, I am super tired now.”

“Good night!”

“Good night!”

Ana. In Fire and Flame.

I love Amsterdam homes and I love my friends. So when I go visit them see how their personality extends to the space they live in, I can hardly stay away from the camera.

Ana is one of my muses. It is absolutely effortless to take good photos of her. I went to her place Tuesday after work. She waited for me with dinner, then we had coffee and chocolate on her sunny balcony in Amsterdam West. On sounds of fado from her mother country, we moved from one room to the other, taking photos of her in what she referred to as homey circumstances. “This is where I stay when I write,” she said and positioned herself at the window. “Do you know what <in flaam and vuur staan> means?” she said later, sitting on the floor and opening a notebook. “Yeah, it means to stay in fire and flame,” I said. “Yes, I love this.” Then she recited a poem she had written for a past lover. And we went on like this. “This is a photo of my grandmother. This is a book of fairy tales. I love fairy tales.”

Thank you, Ana, for being such a good host and such an inspiring friend!

Elizabeth at Miradouro de Santo Amaro

Some moments are touched by the sparks of magic. What I feel when I recall this particular summer evening with Elizabeth at Miradouro de Santo Amaro is happiness. Lisbon at golden hour, the view over terracotta rooftops all the way down to the water, the shipyard, the motion of cars and trains on the bridge, the planes coming from faraway places flying low above our heads, the romance of this almost unknown viewpoint at the end of the world, with its sun-kissed, undulating stones inviting you to sit down and just look around.

“More and more I realize that now I like to take photos of people in special places, rather than take photos of the places themselves,” I confess to Elizabeth while sharing a cake at the end of the photoshoot.

“Right,” Elizabeth says, looking at the water in the distance. “It adds another layer.”

Layer upon layer, this is exactly what I see when looking at these photos. The joy of being in Lisbon, upon the colours of that end of the day at Miradouro de Santo Amaro, upon my loneliness and lack of direction in a city where I knew no one, upon the happiness of meeting a friend, upon the extraordinary feeling of resonating with another human being and sharing a moment in time with them.

Elizabeth and I agreed. For us, Lisbon is the most romantic place in the world and Miradouro de Santo Amaro the best place to bring your lover. Or someone who understands.

Living la Vie en Rose in a Parisian Home

The time spent in Iza and Paul’s beautiful apartment in the 7th arrondissement of Paris was truly magic. We were there for a total of five days during this Easter holiday.

La vie en rose is definitely not a myth, I can tell you that much. It starts in the morning, when pushing the curtains sideways to open the window. The classic white shutters need unlocking and I swear there is no better promise of a new day than making this gesture! The crisp air comes in and the flavoured coffee steam is raising from the cups, into the sunlight. On the dining table, fresh buttery croissants and pain au chocolat from the boulangerie downstairs. And the gentle, warm flickering of candles. Whoever said candles were an evening delight only was definitely not Parisian.

With the traces of sleep still visible on our faces, we would have breakfast together, enjoying the comfort of food and friendship. La vie en rose. The sweet life. We would have a similar ritual late in the evening, with a cup of tea, to share stories about how we spent our day. Needless to say, as visitors, we were out most of the time, wandering the city streets and taking photos, so there was plenty of catching up to do.

As always, leaving Paris was hard. Leaving this sweet home away from home was even harder. Although our friends have only recently moved in and they believe there is still plenty to do in terms of decorating etc., I say they’ve done a great job. They made the place theirs, that’s for sure. Being such a sucker for beautiful details, I had to keep on taking photos of it. I also had to take home a bottle of that same rose scented shower gel Iza was using – my attempt of bringing a bit of la vie en rose to Amsterdam. Will it work? I surely hope so!

Everything Pink

Today, enjoying the sun on Jharda‘s rooftop in the 9 Streets, a cold drink at hand, I realized I no longer had a problem with routine. Routine is no longer an obstacle between myself and my creative realization because the creative ideas have left me or at least they are on hold. So, I do not feel I am wasting time when I am not being productive, as I would normally feel. Because what else to do with time if not enjoying a sunny day on a rooftop in Amsterdam?

Then the idea to go to Westerpark and see the trees in bloom came. We sat on the grass underneath a tree and looked at the children playing happily in the park. I felt happy, too, for no particular reason. “Whoops! A cherry flower hit me,” said Jharda, and I burst into laughter almost immediately, repeating her words and imitating her voice. It was “raining” with cherry flowers and sunshine.

Life appeared to me as if seen through pink glasses today: the cherry blossom was pink, the cakes were pink, the cups were pink, the shop signs were pink, Jharda’s blouse was pink. And although I was wearing black, as usual, I knew I was pink, too.